London/Normandy 2016: Day 10

On our Tour at the Paratrooper Memorial

   Today was another big day for our trip, as we explored some of the areas involved with the D-Day landings in Normandy. We woke early and foraged for lunch at the local bakeries before catching the train to Bayeux, where we met our bus and tour guide. Upon arriving in Bayeux, we were immediately struck by the massive cathedral which dominated the town. We did not have the chance to explore it today; however, tomorrow has promise for seeing it up close.

After meeting our driver and our guide, we went first to a monument to American Paratroopers in the countryside. It was located by a critical bridge which the American troops held against numerous German counter attacks, including several with tanks. The views of the surrounding area were incredible and it was amazing that even such a small bridge played such a critical role in the landings.

Sainte-Mere-Egilse (note the "paratrooper on the top left steeple)

Our next stop was the village of Sainte-Mere-Eglise, where one paratrooper was famously stuck on a church steeple for some time before being freed. This is immortalized in the village to this day, with a "paratrooper" permanently attached to one of the steeples (albeit on the wrong one -- better for tourists, however). 

Higgins Memorial with unconvincing reenactors

We then traveled to Utah Beach, one of the American landing-zones on June 6, 1944. We were able to pose for a picture in front of a memorial for Higgins Boats landing craft and the crews who served aboard them during the war, especially those who landed at Normandy. 

Tour on Utah Beach

After walking down to the beach and understanding the topography of the area, we went into the Utah Beach museum, which explained many facets of the landings not only at Utah, but also at the other beaches on D-Day. The exhibits also explored the battles following the landings in the hedgerow country, as well as the role of the Free French in the war before, during, and after the landings. One of the most impressive exhibits was the restored B-26 bomber, which had been repainted to appear as an American plane would have during the landings.

B-26 Marauder Bomber

German Military Cemetery at La Cambe

 After leaving the Utah Beach Museum, we went to the German Military Cemetery in Normandy, which was a very somber moment. It was a very important part of the day however, as it allowed us to understand how the German state and people honored their dead from the battle. I personally was very impressed by the cemetery and was touched to see several of the graves still cared for with flowers or small tokens. Even though they lost the war and were the occupying force, the care given to the cemetery and honor the fallen German troops have been given there humanizes who they were. 

German Military Cemetery at La Cambe

The center of the cemetery has a mound symbolizing the rise to Valhalla, topped with a Latin cross, as well as a male and female figure, symbolizing the grieving parents over their lost children. The entrance to the cemetery is also designed to be single file, so that one recognizes that the German troops will be judged by their creator one by one as they enter. This was truly an interesting and moving experience.

Memorial at Pointe-du-Hoc to American Rangers

We next journeyed to Pointe-du-Hoc, which was a battery of guns on the Normandy coast, and was site of the landings of the American Ranger elements during D-Day.

The craters from bombardment before the landings were still visible, and they were shockingly deep in some places, but only more shocking was the survival of many of the German emplacements and bunkers during this bombardment. So well built were many of these structures, that even today after taking numerous direct hits during the war they are still standing and can be walked through. The fierce fighting around the Pointe-du-Hoc area lasted several days, but the Rangers were finally relieved three days after the landings. The moon-like terrain of the clifftop base created by the bombing, as well as the large numbers of bunkers and hardened points, makes it easy to understand how it was a tough fight for the Rangers.

German Bunker at Point-du-Hoc

 After leaving the wrecked gun battery, we traveled to the bloodiest beach of the landings, Omaha. It was on this beach that thousands of American troops were killed as they attempted to cross massive swaths of open sand. German gun emplacements high on the hills surrounding the beach, combined with numerous obstacles in the sand, allow someone visiting the beach to understand how difficult it was to cross the beach and why so many Americans gave their lives here for the liberation of France. 

Omaha Beach, with Memorial in the Background

The powerful visit to Omaha was not the conclusion of the day however, as we then traveled to the American Cemetery for the Battle of Normandy. Over 10,000 American troops are buried in the cemetery, which is located on a bluff overlooking Omaha Beach. The monuments within the grounds are beautiful and proud reminders of the sacrifices made by the men who fought and died in Normandy, both on D-Day and after. Some of us visited the grave of Brigadier General Teddy Roosevelt Jr., who died in Normandy of a heart attack after the landings. Roosevelt was an esteemed and respected leaded during the war, and earned the Medal of Honor for his actions in rallying his troops during the landings on June 6, when he went ashore with them and helped to lead the advance. Even after we visited his grave and continued to walk through the cemetery, the power of seeing so many markers for so many Americans who made the ultimate sacrifice was a very emotional and touching moment for us. We was especially moved by the markers for unknown soldiers, as our inability to thank them by name makes them only more selfless in their sacrifice. The playing of taps as the flags were lowered at the end of the day was a fitting way to conclude the visit. 

American Military Cemetery at Omaha Beach, looking out to the Atlantic Ocean

After departing the cemetery, we returned to Bayeux for dinner at a local establishment, where some were pleased with their meal of a crépe or sandwich, and others were very disappointed to find that the "steak" they had ordered was closer in reality to a hamburger without a bun. After a good laugh and finishing our meals, some of us went in search of ice cream while waiting for the train, but had no success. Soon it was time to hop back on the train and ride back to Caen for the night. We all have high hopes to return to Bayeux tomorrow to potentially see the Bayeux Tapestry, but are anxious to see what transpires with the rail strike forthcoming [Ed. note: Don't forget the potential air-traffic controller's strike -- that is also quite exciting]. It is hard to believe that the trip is almost over! Just one more day!